Beaches, mountains and scamorza

   We finally visited a couple of other regions/provinces in Cambodia.  We took a wonderful trip with 2 couples from Hungary for a week.  One couple is our good friends Andras and Eszter who we've known just about since we arrived here.  The other couple we met on the trip, their friends, who were great folks also.  Oh actually the woman is from Latvia, living in Hungary.

  So we 1st spent a night in Phnom Penh which I haven't seen much of.  And now have no great desire to revisit. It just seemed too big and so different from SR.  Though I did want to visit the Kingdom Brewpub, a recently opened 1st ever micro-brew pub in Cambodia.  I do miss the microbrews of the US especially Vt. pale ales.  We searched out a Mex place, I know weird but it's what we did with the couple in SR, and found a good one.  Though before we went there we entered another place that served mex food but found it also apparently served up women.  As we walked in we realized it was filled with Western men and flashy Khmer women.  It was obvious that the women were 'professionals'.   We kinda got odd looks and decided perhaps we were in the wrong place and quickly left.  Then we noticed on that street the bars were named Pussy Cat Club, 69 Club and the like.  Not too discreetly named as the place we entered.  An odd experience.

Phnom Penh

 
  Mondulkiri is one of the provinces with mountains we visited and had a great time.  It was cooler and seemed to not have mosquitos.  They are really not that bad in SR but they are present. The highlights of our days there were riding elephants and washing elephants.  And going to see these impressive waterfalls.  It's a town and region that will most likely see a lot of growth, tourism, soon.  A road there was just built last year and it makes it so much quicker to get to and accessible in rainy season when everything turns green, like Vermont. We also had great times talking to some local folks there.

  From Mondulkiri we headed to the beach!  We went to an island Koh Rung Soloem off of Sihanoukville. Specifically Lazy Beach www.lazybeachcambodia.com  What a wonderful time we had there being lazy.  The beaches were white sand and the water was crystal clear, and virtually no one on the beach that stretched out a long ways.  The bungalows were sparten but clean and with showers and hammocks on the porch.  Only 14 of them spread far apart and all overlooking the water.  What added to the enjoyment of that was that the food served at the restaurant, the only food available, was excellent.

Spicy Shrimp

Calamari

 
 We spent our few days there not doing a lot, well it is Lazy Beach after all.  We did take a hike through the forest, 25 min walk actually, to another deserted beach.  And we did have a few games of  Uno.  We ate, drank, talked and I got maybe the 4th sunburn in my life.  Not bad at all but I did peel. So it was great to see other parts of Cambodia and now has us itching to see more.

Lazy Beach

That's Lazy Beach down there

Our Bungalow

 
  So we left there and headed back to Phnom Penh to say our final sad goodbyes to our Eastern European friends.  We did promise them that we would visit them in Budapest.  I've always wanted to visit Easter Europe and now we have friends to show us what I believe is a beautiful city.  We will go at some point.

Jess, Andras, Eszter, Olga and Gabor , me

  Back to routine of SR.  And there is a routine now firmly established here.  I like both the gigs I'm involved with as I've stated previously.  And it seems like we still need to visit some eating establishments here that we've heard are good.  We did go to a fairly new Italian place.  Though a bit pricey, for here, the food was fantastic.  We especially liked a dish that we loved to eat at the Trattoria Delia in Burlington, Vt., scamorza alla griglia, (smoked mozzarella with grilled veggies).   We stared at each other elated as we took our 1st bite  as it tasted just like the Trat's dish.   The wine was good and Jess loved her gnoochi with porcini and cheeses and my spag Bolognese was delicious.  Then the true test, panna cotta!  Wow it was fantastic!  Don't know how much we'll make our way there but it's great just knowing it's there.

Teacher Srey Mien, Makarai, me, Eli from Portland , Ore., kids

  We met one of the owners, an Italian who has restaurants in Italy but said it's nearly impossible to open places there.  So they decided to open a place in SR. Lucky us.  And I understand one of the owners plays tennis with a Belgian guy I play.  Another potential partner on the courts!

   Weather has been surprisingly pleasant and also surprisingly it rained a few days in a row.  Not typical for this time of year.  Normally it's hotter and no rain, so we're enjoying the oddity.  Folks keep telling us just wait, and we have been here in April so we do know it will get hot and humid soon.

  Just a thought about foods and eating here.  I am eating more fish and fruit here than I did at home.  I think significantly more.  And more pork and less chicken, but maybe more meat in general, beef also.  Veggies about the same perhaps though maybe more greens.  More beer and water and less wine.  I have lost a bit of weight.  Maybe because of riding my bike so much, have I mentioned I love riding my bike, or maybe I'm just getting old.  On the other hand I'm still holding my own on the tennis courts beating 'youngsters' in their 20's-40's.  Ha ha.

  We'll be heading to Vt. in May and very much looking forward to that.  I'm very curious as to how it will feel to be back in the states, back to an American/Western culture scene.  And then to return 'home' after almost a month 'home'.  We'll see.

a great dad and kid pic

Winter warmth

  It seems to be getting warmer and more humid as the days go by.  Though at times it may be 90 but low humidity and that feels fine.  I've been busy.  Busy in the mornings at the NGO and busy in the afternoon at the children's hospital.  I've also been busy playing tennis, on average 3 times a week, which is great considering there was some doubt about me being able to play at all here.

 The past week and a half has been lots of fun as we have guests from Vt.  It's wonderful to have folks here who have 'fresh eyes' and enjoy us showing them around Siem Reap.  Our friend Alison is here with her 2 kids Willa and Julian.  A girl, 13, and boy, 10, respectively.  They are lovely kids as is mom and it's been a pleasure having company.  I get a kick out of the boy as he very much reminds me of Skyler when he was his age.  For example he's obsessed with soccer/futbol, though Sky played soccer I think baseball was more his obsession.  In fact might still be.

  I am still at the NGO that treated Jess so poorly.  Why?  The kids of course.  I have tried to justify my position on this, weak as that was, I just can't bring myself to leave.  I don't deal with the bullshit there, I just concentrate on the kids.  I have lots of materials, many thanks to all back home who were involved in sending the much needed supplies.  Everything is being put to use.  I also have somewhat of a budget to mostly buy consumables, clay, flour for playdough,water colors etc...  We have a good daily routine and one of the Khmer teachers is especially good.  As I've stated in the previous post the class is split for the 1st part of the morning.  Higher level kids in the 'hut' doing more formal learning, though still with play and fun involved.  And the 2nd group of kids outside involved in preschool type activities.  Though recently we've been introducing more learning or at least giving exposure to numbers, letters, colors etc.. to many of those kids.

 Most often I am in the 'hut' but not always and I do often float between the 2 spaces.  Which reminds me of my work at the FR.  The 2nd part of the morning we are all together which is good because I get to interact with all the kids still.  Well here's one reason I am sticking with this gig: a few of the kids who have moved up to the next 'grade level' have come to me showing me what new words they are learning.  Yes I do see progress, the kids are learning and not just learning but there is a confidence I see in them and enthusiasm for learning.  I'd like to think I had a part in that.  I am still very much enjoying my time with these kids and there are new kids all the time which means new challenges.  This I like and need actually.  

  The hospital work is very different, which is good.  I see different kids and parents every day and interact with many parents.  There are some repeat folks as kids I imagine have to come in for treatments and/or follow-up care.  Let me see if I can articulate what I do there.  I sit on a kid's preschool chair at a low table with kids also sitting around it as well as parents.  Wait a minute that sounds like the FR scene!  Ok it's a bit different as few speak English, hmmm that was the case often at the FR also with so many refugees/'new' Americans.  Well in any case there is the occasional kid or parent that does speak English.  And of course I am the one who doesn't speak the language of the country I'm living in so the onus is on me to understand.

  Ok so what I'm doing is trying to relieve the boredom of them having to wait to be seen.  So mostly the kids are drawing and coloring and often the parents too.  But I have also brought in books and small manipulatives.    I had an especially good day there today.  The kids and sometime parents try to teach me words, mostly animals and fruits.  Three girls, about 9yrs. old were there today and they got a kick out of me trying to say different words they were trying to teach me.  The best part of my time there was when a mom brought over her baby @ 9 months old, maybe a bit older.  I gave her a flower drawing and she started coloring it.  Of course the baby wanted attention so at that point I wasn't tied up so I offered to take her.  And she gave her to me!!!  I got to hold a baby, it's been a while.  Before she started coloring I was amusing the baby and she had no problem with me holding her.  It was great.

  I interact and 'talk' with parents almost as much as I do with the kids.  And the parents, moms and dads, like to draw and color also.  One particular dad, and I've seen him twice, traces pictures of vegetables/fruits and writes the names in Khmer and then tells me and I write it in English and tell him.  Some parents ask where I'm from and ask how long I'm here for.  One rather interesting interactions I've had is 20 something moms asking me if I could help them find a Western boyfriend, mostly so they could move out of Cambodia.  One mom said she was married but would leave him if she found a European husband.

   It's been over a week since I started this blog so I'm going to finally post it and start a new one.

Belated Happy Chinese New Year!

   Time seems to be going by quickly, yeah what's new?  It was a good month at the school I would say mostly because of some key volunteers.  One was Eli the 13 yr. old daughter of a Portland, Oregon family who will be here till April and we had an actual kindergarten teacher from Australia, Jacqui, who was here for 3 weeks.  A woman Jan, Australian, has been great to have part of the class also.  Adding to the goodness are Care packages sent from home and from a former volunteer, Carol, from Australia.  The Portland family who've we've gotten to know, are like minded folks.  It's been wonderful to hang out with them, it feels like they're old friends.
 
  The family is here volunteering.  The dad is a Doc who is working at New Hope clinic part time and also doing some work with I believe a women's health organization.  Mom is doing some outreach work as a public health education advocate.  Their 18 yr. old son is working with an NGO installing wells.  Both kids are bright and mature.  And I've played tennis with dad!  What a bonus.  They live just blocks from Skyler in Portland, so when we live there we'll have some ready made friends.  Lovely folks.

  It was so good to have a K. teacher who fully understood what my philosophy is, play-based, and what the work with the kids is all about.  And she had some wonderful ideas that we were able to implement.  Specifically an assessment of the kid's skill levels was done.  Eli as well as the Khmer teachers, Srei Mien and Chenda, were up to the task, long overdue.  I feel I should have done this earlier but just didn't have the support I thought I needed.  You would think the admin./mngmnt. folks would take the lead on this, not some lowly volunteers.  But alas it's not what happens here.  In any case we now have 2 groups almost evenly divided.  We'll be able to concentrate on each group's abilities and have more appropriate activities and lessons for each group.  Always challenging and fun but now more manageable.

  That's what I do mornings, M-F.  In the afternoons now I go to the Angkor Hospital for Children and help the kids relieve the boredom of waiting.  It's fairly easy, mostly the kids color pictures I trace.  I also bring in some small manipulatives and books.  I love it as there are obviously new kids/parents every day.  Some kids I see repeatedly as they are in in-patient care I guess. Few kids or parents know English and my Khmer is much less than minimal.  So I mostly communicate through gestures etc... I realized I am somewhat used to that after working so many years with pre-verbal kids and new-English speaking refugees in Vt.  So I have met some wonderful kids and parents.  And some do have English.  One particular girl,10, had great English and helped me communicate with kids and parents.  An incredibly bright girl.  I hope that brightness brings her a good life.  It's hard not to think about lost potential of so many kids I interact with here.  The barriers and lack of resources for kids to succeed are enormous.  Such a shame.

  I've also met parents at the hospital and that's always fun.  The conversations often include questions of where I'm from, how long I'm here for and a thank you for being friendly and talking to them.  I ask them about their home province, their family and thank them for talking to me. It's all so interesting and fascinating.  I wish I could articulate better the interactions I have.  I love it.

  There is a chance also of doing some Social Work at the hospital too, a doctor/tennis partner friend told me last week that the head honcho, an American, wants to talk to me about some work in that area. We'll see what happens. I think it would be great to see if there is a possibility to do some parenting education.  That's quite a fantasy I know but as they say 'you never know'.   I've met several dads at the hospital and school and of course I can't help but fantasize about a group for dads, yeah crazy thoughts.  But.....

   The weather here has just been wonderful lately low 80's and breezy during the day with low humidity and no rain.  Mornings and nighttimes are cool, low 70's.  Sorry Vt and whereever else the weather is bad.  We are still meeting folks both Khmer and Westerners and discovering new places to eat. We seem to cook in and eat out equally.  And I've been finding new foods to cook and fruits to eat.  I've been playing tennis often enough and still am joyous about riding my bike daily.  Jess and I have gotten into riding our bikes out to the countrysides, so much fun seeing new areas of Siem Reap.  Have I mentioned how lucky I feel?

  However I am so looking forward to being in Vt. and seeing folks in May.    PICS:

Whew, most of the kids there I think.

Jan brought balloons. Chenda and Srei Mien

very cool

joint effort ? and Kvai

Theda likes the blocks

Soth has moved up but we have his brother now

Sopal learns fast

Go girls

the white shirt/ blue pants tells me she attends a Khmer school

2011 in Cambodia

  Well 2011 what will the year bring?  I'm very much looking forward to this coming year in Cambodia.  My biggest hope for the year is that we'll have many friends and family visiting us from the states  Especially our kids.   Jaz has a friend here now and it's been great having a test run for future visitors.  I look forward to showing folks around town and letting them see what a great place this is to be living.  I know some folks back home think we perhaps have 'lost a few marbles'.  And if you think about it we quit good paying jobs and became unemployed in the midst what some folks call the the worst economic times in many decades.  But we were not about to lead our lives in a direction dictated by the ups and downs of the economy.   We had plans.  Luckily I can make those statements.   We have no regrets so far and for people contemplating a trip here, you've got time, we'll most likely be here for 2 years at least.

  It's been just over 4 months since we arrived and I at times comment "another day in Paradise".  Certainly at times it feels a bit like that, warm weather, cheap restaurants, cheap beer, wonderful kids I work with, no car, bike rides daily, mid-day naps,  meeting new friends, the best fresh fruit and veggies available, the Khmer people and new experiences often.  Of course I miss friends and family back home terribly.  And certainly some foods not available here I miss and I miss the variety of wines at home.  And the great Vermont micro-brews especially pale ales I miss.  But overall there is not a lot I'm dying for that is not attainable here.

  In fact I am even able to catch some sporting events on TV that I thought I would miss, including the World Series, some college f-ball/b-ball, pro f-ball and there is plenty of soccer and tennis.  Much tennis that I would not catch at home.  I don't watch much TV, usually sports and news.  It was a bit odd to watch the Pats and Packers Sun. Night Football on Wed. afternoon, but I am getting the College Bowl games live.  Most likely will catch the Australian Open in the next few weeks.  OK enough sports talk.

  Work is still challenging but fun.  Right now I work only mornings at the school but starting this week I will be doing some afternoon work with kids at the Angkor Children's Hospital.  A change of scene and something new will be good I believe.  I should mention that I would not so easily be able to do the work with the kids at the school as I do without the generous 'gifts' sent here from folks back home.  I can't list the many items but know all are being put to good use in helping the kids to learn and grow and have fun.  It has made my job so much easier and fun.  MANY THANKS!

  Sometimes I think I'm re-creating a Family Room here.  We have 45-55 kids and a lot more kids closer to 3 years old, some are @ 7 yrs. old.  So we have 2 'spaces' for the kids now, so we split them up.  We have a set up for outside which looks more FR like with blocks, paints, watercolors, clay, books, and manipulatives  etc...  In the 'hut' we work on small motor skills and numbers, colors, abc's and the like.  I try to get both spaces ready and find myself sharing time between both spaces.  If volunteers are plentiful or at least 2 it's much easier, if not which has been the case lately it's a bit crazier.  Nevertheless I love it.

  
  Yesterday, Jan 1, Jess and I had a most wonderful start for the new year.  Slept in and woke w/o hangovers.  ( It was a fun NY Eve).  We started off happily with a cheese omlette.  Then we took a long bike ride, cheerfully getting 'lost' and discovering new areas.  We then stopped for $1.50 mango margaritas, $1 tacos and people watching downtown.  Got $5 foot massages which included more than our feet.  Returned home and shortly thereafter left in the tuk tuk with Sovann, Jaz and her friend Jeffery for an interesting ride outside Siem Reap.  We went to the 'mountain' in the area, it's pretty flat here.  We grabbed sandwiches on the way there.  Returning back home we napped, woke had a late pesto pasta dinner and settled in watching Dexter on the laptop, a Showtime series that is done well.  The weather was great and I must not forget the chocolate we had after dinner to end the day.  A good start that I hope continues for 2011.  HAPPY NEW YEAR!!

 

Happy Holidays!

   I want to wish a Happy Holiday Season to all!

   It's Xmas eve morning and it could not feel any different than it does here in Cambodia.  It will be the 1st time in forever that I've worked and haven't been thinking about the 7 course, 10 hour seafood fest that I should prepare, (it's an Italian thing).  I'd be anxiously waiting for the arrival of friends and family.  In fact I'd be anxious for days, planning with family, especially Billy, what we should prepare.  Not to be this year as the weather is warm and there is lack of family and old friends. 

   I am always thinking of my family and good friends and especially today.  Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!!   (please pass my holiday wishes on).   Love, Steve

    PEACE and GOOD HEALTH

 

A few more pics

Gifts and tennis

   This past week was exciting for at least 2 reasons.  We received a few boxes from home filled with needed and desirable items.  Some great books, blocks and other needed supplies for the kids in my class. They have already enjoyed them within a day of getting them.  And also 'tons' of chocolate which is expensive here.  And some household items etc...  THANKS to all the parties involved.  And I understand more kid stuff is coming probably by next week from FR folks.  I'm so excited!!  MUCHAS GRACIAS.

  And I think I played tennis 3 days last week.  And with 2 challenging players on a regulation very nice court.  And under the lights too.  I feel a bit decadent having a membership at this fancy expensive hotel.  But I got a good deal, much cheaper than what I would pay in the States, and I rationalize/justify the expense, "it's for my mental and physical health".  It also has a great pool, though I haven't even dipped a foot in yet, a workout room and I discovered steam and sauna rooms.  I am hoping Jess can cruise in with me sometime to swim.

  So here I am playing tennis as I did at home, for all you skeptics who doubted I'd find a court 'where there's a will there's a way'.  Always liked that saying.  Jaz thinks it's funny that we have fallen into familiar activities recreating what we did at home.  She walked into the kitchen as I was cooking and listening to NPR on the computer.  She commented it was just like at home in the USA.  And as I did at home I was sipping a little whiskey (sometimes I indulge in the hard stuff) given to me for my B'day by a new friend here who's from Hungary.  It's a Cambodian spirit and reminds me of Bourbon, which is what I'd be having at home.

   Jess and I both have commented more than once how we sometimes feel we've changed locations but not our familiar life so to speak.  That's somewhat true but also of course not entirely the truth.  Some things I am doing different follows.  I ride a bike every day.  Back home it seemed like every Summer and Fall we would say that we needed to get out on our bikes more.  We hardly ever if ever rode them.  I cook different kinds of food.  And I believe I eat fresher foods and more fruit.   Right now at least I only work half a day.  So I read more and cook more.  We're meeting folks from different parts of the world on a weekly basis.  And adjusting to the prevailing culture here.  I'm playing tennis outside in the Winter.  Let's face just living here is very different.  And perhaps I'm already getting so used to it I can't think of what else to mention.

  And I'm living outside most of my waking hours, we've stated before that we 'live on the balcony'.   Which of course is where I am now waiting for another exciting thing that has happened this week.  We met an American family that will be here for 5 months and they are coming over for a drink and then we'll go out for a bite with them.  They are from Portland, Oregon perhaps living blocks from Skyler, my son.  Jess and I have talked a bit about moving to Portland some day, a great city, who knows maybe.  In any case Dad is a Doc and will be working at Jess's former Clinic workplace, mom most likely will work in Outreach there as a health educator.  Their 13 yr. old daughter has already worked with me and the kids.  And their 18 yr. old son will be doing some environmental work I believe.  They seem like very down to Earth lovely folks.  Funny how we crave some American contacts.  Jaz is excited to meet the teen boy, a potential American friend!  So looking forward to getting to know them.

  Here's some pics of the kids exploring the new 'stuff'.   

pic from http://www.coopsnpeps.blogspot.com/ 3 bright kids in my class